When I had my craft unit this was one of my most favourite workshops to do.
We all crocheted squares to make a bag, then against all of our instincts not too.... we threw them into a hot wash to shrink!!
So, it was time to revisit it and re-make it for a tutorial.
Of course, you can choose not to shrink your bag, you can just use the pattern to create a regular crochet bag, you might need to line it though so it doesn't stretch. If you do choose to shrink it you will need to use 100% wool and ignore the washing instructions completely :)
And you can make any shaped bag you like, my layout is just an example, but any bag you make in 100% wool can be shrunk.
I have had an influx of watchers on my Links Blanket on YouTube recently and it seems some people would like the written pattern beside them as they work rather than keep returning to the video.
Different people have different learning styles, some like to read, some like to watch, so if I can help with both I happily will.
So, below are all the links and all the instructions for my Links Blanket.
The rainbow effect is my most popular colourway, but the one I originally designed was in shades of purple.
It looks equally as good in a single colour where you are relying on the texture to be the pretty part of the pattern rather than the colour.
Whatever colour to decide to do it in, I hope you enjoy making this :)
Link 1.Chain 12, ss into first stitch to join into a ring.
CH2, then work 23x HTR's into the ring.
SS to the beginning CH2 to join.
Subsequent Links.Chain 12, with the
first link facing you, thread the chain through the back of the link then ss
into first stitch to join into a ring. CH2, then work 23x HTR's into the
ring. SS to the beginning CH2 to join.
For a blanket like the Rainbow one in the
photo which is 1 x 1.7m (approx. 3 x 5 ft) you will need 14 strips of 28 links.
Round 1.Take a length of
links. Join in a stitch on the first
link and DC in the same space. DC in the
next 4 stitches.
·(Move to the next link and DC into
the next 5 stitches) work across all
your links.
·Work (DC,CH, DC) in the next stitch.
DC in the next 5. (DC, CH, DC) in the next stitch, DC in the next 5.
·(Move to the next link and missing
out 7 stitches from the last stitch in that link, work a DC in the next 5
stitches) work across all your links.
·Work (DC,CH, DC) in the next stitch.
DC in the next 5. (DC, CH, DC) in the next stitch, SS to first stitch to join.
Round 2.CH1, DC into the
first stitch and every following stitch to the corner. (1 x DC, 1 x CH, 1 x DC) into the corner
space. Repeat all the way around. SS to
join. END YARN.
Round 3. Rejoin yarn into any CORNER
space. CH3, (2 x TR, 2 x CH, 3 x
TR) into the same corner space. ***SK2, then 3 x TR into the
next stitch. Repeat from ***to next corner (you might
have to skip an extra stitch at the end to even up the clusters) work (3 x TR,
2 x CH, 3 x TR) into the same corner space, continue this pattern all the way
around. SS to join.
Joining the strips.Work a Standing DC
into the very first corner hole on the long length of the strip. Pick up the
next strip and hold your strips back-to-back. Work a DC into the very
first hole on the back strip.
***CH3, then work a dc into the next free space on the first strip, then a
DC into the next free space on the back strip.
Repeat from ***all the way across ending with a DC in the last back space.
Edging – row 1.With your work facing
you, start in any corner space with a SS. CH2, work (1 x HTR, 2 x CH, 2 x HTR)
into the corner space. Working inbetween
the previous row stitches work a HTR all the way across. When you come to a seam, work a HTR right in
the middle of the joining stitch. For
each corner space work (2 x HTR, 2 x CH, 2 x HTR) into the corner space. SS to join, End yarn
Subsequent rows.With your new yarn,
join with a SS into any corner and CH 4, work a HTR into the same corner space.
Working inbetween the previous row stitches work a HTR all the way
across. For each corner space work (1 x
HTR, 2 x CH, 1 x HTR) into the corner space.
SS to join, End yarn
Stitches
explained:
Chain Stitch
- Yarn around hook (from the back) and pull the new yarn through the loop on
your hook.This is ONE chain.Repeat as needed.
Double Crochet
(DC) - Put hook through work and draw yarn back through (2 loops on
hook) yarn around hook, draw through 2 loops on hook
Half Treble
Crochet (HTR) - Yarn around hook (from the back) put hook through work
and draw yarn back through (3 loops on hook) yarn around hook, draw through 3
loops on hook.
If you do make this, I would love you to tag me on Instagram, Facebook or any other socials - you can find me using this same user name - Sooz in The Shed.
I have been making Cumberland Rum Butter for many years now, from the method passed down from my Granny via my Mother. It seems I actually use the 'Westmorland' method, which melts the butter before the creaming, it take a little longer but the result is a lovely smooth butter which isn't as gritty as just the regular creaming method.
But now I have started a new YouTube channel called Sooz Foodz - this is where I shall be uploading easy to create recipes and hacks, along side the odd restaurant review.
I have kept these food focused tutorials and videos separate from the crafts and crochet that I normally produce, not everyone wants to see the same thing afterall, hence the new channel.
I would absolutely love it if you would give me a follow on there.... https://www.youtube.com/@Soozfoodz and you will see that I have uploaded the video of my Rum Butter recipe. If you give it a go, do let me know what you think.
Hello Happy Hookers, I do hope this blog post finds you well....
I have been working on a stash buster for a few weeks - I keep picking it up and putting it down again to work on other projects in-between, but finally I can announce that it is finished!!
It is really quite simple to do, and if you can do a Granny Square I am pretty sure you can do this too!
I use my favourite Stylecraft Special DK yarn, just grabbing part balls out of my stash - as long as you have enough to do three lines you can use up all your old part balls! A hint might be to weigh the part ball before you start, then divide it by three..... once you have got to that number on the scales you know you will have enough to do the other two parts.
The body of the blanket is done in three separate pieces, so you can do them one at a time, or jump back and forth to make them all grow at the same rate. I chose to join in black and make a feature of the join to make the colours pop, I then edges it in black too to make the joining look more cohesive.
I always use my most favourite hook which is a Clover Amour - I notice from my videos though that I jump between the 4,00mm and the 4.50mm - this is the problem when you keep putting work down and returning to it, you can't always remember which hook you used! :)
Anyway, if you fancy having a go, you can find the video here.....
I love to see photos of your finished items, so please do feel free to tag me on the Socials - it's Sooz in The Shed all way way :)
Until next time.... Happy Hooking!
Oh, and just for transparency, if you buy anything from Amazon using the links I provided I get a small commission. just pennies if I remember rightly, but it doesn't cost you a bean :)
Hello and welcome back to the Crochet-A-Long Nativity Scene, and this is Week 6 - the last week! This final instalment should finish your Nativity Scene.... so I hope you have all your chocolates ready.
The final tutorial is for the Baby Jesus, all wrapped up in a cosy blanket, laying on the Manger.
And if you prefer the written instruction, you can find that here....
Stitches explained:
CH = Chain Stitch - Yarn around hook (from the back) and pull the new yarn through the loop on your hook. This is ONE chain. Repeat as needed.
Double Crochet (DC) - Put hook through work, draw yarn back through (2 loops on hook) yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through the 2 loops on the hook.
SS = Slip Stitch - Put hook through work, draw yarn back through both loops on your hook
Baby Jesus
Round 1. Skin ColourCH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your
hook. (6)
Pull up a length of
scrap yarn into the last stitch (to use as a stitch marker) do this at the end
of each round.
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Round 3.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Rounds 4-9. Work 6 straight rounds (18)
Round 9.(DC 1 into next stitch,
then DC2tog) Repeat all the way around (12)
Blanket
Row 1. CH 11, DC into the 2nd CH from the hook and into each stitch following.
(10)
Row 2-34. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 33 rows. (10)
Wrap the blanket around Baby Jesus and sew into place.
Manger
Row 1. CH 14, DC into the 2nd CH from the hook and into each stitch following.
(13)
Row 2-27. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 26 rows. (13)
Turn to work down the side of the piece...
Row 1. CH 1, DC in next 10 stitches. (10)
(you are working across the first 11 DC rows only)
Row 2-4. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 3 rows. (10)
Break yarn.
Rejoin yarn to the opposite side...
Row 1. DC in next 10 stitches. (10) (you
are working across the first 11 DC rows only)
Row 2-4. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 3 rows. (10)
Break yarn. Sew up the sides to
make a pouch.
Well, thank you for joining me on this journey to make your very own Nativity Scene, one that you can bring out year after year - not to mention being able to enjoy all the chocolates that it requires too!
Hope to see you soon on another Crocher-A-Long, but until then... Happy Hooking!
Oh, and just for transparency, if you buy anything from Amazon using the links I provided I get a small commission. just pennies if I remember rightly, but it doesn't cost you a bean :)
The gifts are formed around Quality Street chocolates, but you can take the format and use it to work around other sweeties if you don't have a box of QC.
You will need:
3 x Gifts in Rich Colours.
You can find the video here....
And if you prefer the written instruction, you can find that here....
Stitches explained:
CH = Chain Stitch - Yarn around hook (from the back) and pull the new yarn through the loop on your hook. This is ONE chain. Repeat as needed.
Double Crochet (DC) - Put hook through work, draw yarn back through (2 loops on hook) yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through the 2 loops on the hook.
SS = Slip Stitch - Put hook through work, draw yarn back through both loops on your hook
Gifts
Quality Street Blue
Coconut Eclair
Row 1. CH 8, DC into the 2nd CH from the hook and into each stitch following.
(7)
Row 2-14. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 13 rows. (7)
Turn to work down the side of the piece...
Row 1. CH 1, DC in next 4 stitches. (4)
Row 2-5. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 4 rows. (4)
Break yarn.
Rejoin yarn to the opposite side to create a 'T' shape...
Row 1. DC in next 4 stitches. (4)
Row 2-5. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 4 rows. (4)
Break yarn.
Sew the long strip around the three ends of the short arms to make a
cube. Repeat on other side.
Quality Street Green
Chocolate Block
Row 1. CH 7, DC into the 2nd CH from the hook and into each stitch following.
(6)
Row 2-14. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 13 rows. (6)
Turn to work down the side of the piece...
Row 1. CH 1, DC in next 3 stitches. (3)
Row 2-5. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 2 rows. (3)
Break yarn.
Rejoin yarn to the opposite side to create a 'T' shape...
Row 1. DC in next 4 stitches. (4)
Row 2-5. CH 1, DC in each stitch for 3 rows. (4)
Break yarn.
Sew the long strip around the three ends of the short arms to make a
cube. Repeat on other side.
Quality Street Orange
Crunch
Round 1. CH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (6)
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Round 3.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Rounds 4-6. Work 3 straight rounds (18) End
yarn.
Make 2 pieces of the following...
Row 1. CH 2, then work 3 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (3) Turn.
Row 2. Ch1, Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 3 stitches (6)
Row 3. Ch1, (DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) 3 times (9) End yarn.
Sew the two flaps to the bottom of the top part.
Tie all of the gifts with
coloured yarn
Hope you enjoy this week, bookmark this blog and I will see you next week for Part 5.
Until then... Happy Hooking!
Oh, and just for transparency, if you buy anything from Amazon using the links I provided I get a small commission. just pennies if I remember rightly, but it doesn't cost you a bean :)
The camel is done in a slightly different way from the other bodies, to include a cute little hump! Inside the hump hides a Ferrero Rocher Chocolate so have that ready to measure as you work.
You will need:
1 x Camel in Brown
You can find the video here....
And if you prefer the written instruction, you can find that here....
Stitches
explained:
CH = Chain Stitch - Yarn around hook
(from the back) and pull the new yarn through the loop on your hook. This is ONE chain. Repeat as needed.
Double Crochet
(DC) - Put hook through work, draw yarn back through (2 loops on hook)
yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through the 2 loops on the hook.
SS = Slip Stitch - Put hook through
work, draw yarn back through both loops on your hook
Round 1. Camel ColourCH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your
hook. (6)
Pull up a length of
scrap yarn into the last stitch (to use as a stitch marker) do this at the end
of each round.
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Round 3.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Round 4-8.Work 5 straight rounds. (18)
Round 9.(DC 1 into next stitch, then DC2tog) Repeat all the
way around (12)
Round 10.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Round 11.(DC 1 into next 2 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (24)
Round 12.(DC 1 into next 3 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (30)
Round 13.(DC 1 into next 4 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (36)
Rounds 14-25.Work 12 straight rounds (36)
Round 26.(DC 1 into next 4 stitches,
then DC2tog) Repeat all the way around (30)
Hope you enjoy this week, bookmark this blog and I will see you next week for Part 5.
Until then... Happy Hooking!
Oh, and just for transparency, if you buy anything from Amazon using the links I provided I get a small commission. just pennies if I remember rightly, but it doesn't cost you a bean :)
This week you will see that we are also doing the camel's nose and ears - but we have not yet made the Camel's body! Don't worry, that will be along next week, it is made slightly differently to the other bodies so it has a video all of it's own.... but in the meantime we can prepare the nose and the ears.
You will need:
1 x Angel Wings in White
1 x Sheep Face in Grey
1 x Camel Nose in Brown
2 x Camel Ears in Brown
1 x Donkey Nose in White
2 x Donkey Ears in Grey.
You can find the video here....
And if you prefer the written instruction, you can find that here....
Stitches
explained:
CH = Chain Stitch - Yarn around hook
(from the back) and pull the new yarn through the loop on your hook. This is ONE chain. Repeat as needed.
Double Crochet
(DC) - Put hook through work, draw yarn back through (2 loops on hook)
yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through the 2 loops on the hook.
Half Treble
Crochet (HTR) - Yarn around hook, put hook through work, draw yarn back
through (3 loops on hook) yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through
the 3 loops on the hook.
Treble Crochet
(TR) - Yarn around hook, put hook through work, draw yarn back through
(3 loops on hook) yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through 2 loops on
the hook, yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through 2 loops on the
hook.
Double Treble
Crochet (DTR) - Yarn around hook TWICE, put hook through work, draw
yarn back through (4 loops on hook) yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn
through 2 loops on the hook, yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through
2 loops on the hook, yarn around hook (from the back) draw yarn through 2 loops
on the hook.
Double Crochet 2 Together (DC2TOG) - Put hook through stitch and draw yarn
back through (2 loops on hook) STOP! (this
will leave 2 loops on your hook), now put your hook through the NEXT stitch and
draw yarn back through (3 loops on hook) yarn around hook, draw through all 3
loops on hook. You have just crocheted
TWO stitches together to make one.
Double Crochet 3
Together (DC2TOG) - Put
hook through stitch and draw yarn back through (2 loops on hook) STOP! (this will leave 2 loops on your
hook), now put your hook through the NEXT stitch and draw yarn back through (3
loops on hook) put your hook through the NEXT stitch and draw yarn back through
(4 loops on hook) yarn around hook, draw
through all 4 loops on hook. You have
just crocheted THREE stitches together to make one.
SS = Slip Stitch - Put hook through
work, draw yarn back through both loops on your hook
Angel Wings
Round 1. CH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (6)
Pull up a length of
scrap yarn into the last stitch (to use as a stitch marker) do this at the end
of each round.
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Round 3.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Round 4.(DC 1 into next 2 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (24)
Round 5.(DC 1 into next 3 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (30)
Round 6.(DC 1 into next 4 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (36)
Round 7.(DC 1 into next 5 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (42)
Round 8.(DC 1 into next 6 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (48)
Round 9.(DC 1 into next 7 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (54)
Round 10.(DC 1 into next 8 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (60)
Fold in half and SS into the back loops of each stitch to join. Sew to the middle back of the Angel.
Sheep Face
Round 1. CH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (6)
Pull up a length of
scrap yarn into the last stitch (to use as a stitch marker) do this at the end
of each round.
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Round 3.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Round 4.(DC 1 into next 2 stitches, then work 2 x DC's into
the next) Repeat all the way around (24)
Round 5.SS in the next 2 stitches, (HTR, TR, DTR, TR, HTR)
in next. SS the next 14 stitches, (HTR, TR, DTR, TR, HTR) in next. SS in next
2.
Camel Nose
Round 1. CH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (6)
Pull up a length of
scrap yarn into the last stitch (to use as a stitch marker) do this at the end
of each round.
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Rounds 3-5.Work a DC in each stitch for 3 rows. (12)
Camel Ears (make 2)
Row 1. CH 2, then work 4 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (4) TURN.
Row 2.CH1, work 2xDC in each stitch. (8)
Donkey Nose
Round 1. CH 2, then work 6 x DC's into the 2nd CH from your hook. (6)
Pull up a length of
scrap yarn into the last stitch (to use as a stitch marker) do this at the end
of each round.
Round 2.Work 2 x DC's into EACH of the 6 stitches (12)
Round 3.(DC 1 into next stitch, then work 2 x DC's into the
next) Repeat all the way around (18)
Donkey Ears (make 2)
Row 1. CH 5, then work a DC's into the 3rd CH from your hook and the next 2
stitches. (4) TURN.
Rows 2-4.CH1, then DC in each stitch for 3 rows. (4)
Row 5.CH1, then DC in the first stitch, DC2tog, DC in
last stitch. (3)
Rows 6-7.CH1, then DC in each stitch for 2 rows. (3)
Row 8.CH1, then DC3tog.
(1)
Rows 9-11.CH1, then DC in the one stitch for 2 rows. (1)
Row 12.CH1, then DCx3 in the next stitch.. (3)
Rows 13-14.CH1, then DC in each stitch for 2 rows. (3)
Row 15.CH1, then DC in the first stitch, DCx2 in the next
stitch, DC in last stitch.. (4)
Rows 16-20.CH1, then DC in each stitch for 3 rows. (4)
Hope you enjoy this week, bookmark this blog and I will see you next week for Part 4.
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