Crochet Bunting Tutorial

 Hi there Happy Hookers,  hope this blog post finds you all well and happily crocheting away on projects!

I am going through some of my older designs that I used to teach in my workshop, the time has come to make them all again and create videos for you to enjoy and make yourself.

One of the designs I had totally forgotten about was my crochet bunting..... I originally made this in different colours of cottons to decorate the home at Easter, but I thought why not do a nice colourful strip for the garden?

I am using 100% acrylic yarn, which will be absolutely fine hung up in the garden, getting wet from the rain and blow dried again from the wind.  It might fade a little over time in the sunshine, but then you can make some more!

Of course, you can make it as long or as short as you like.... I have used Stylecraft's 'Merry-go-Round' yarn in Rainbow for this tutorial, and one 100g ball makes 12 flags.  I have also used a purple out of my yarn stash to do the edges and the chain to hold them all together, but you can use your scraps for this also... in fact a whole length of different coloured flags would look amazing.

I work in UK crochet terminology, with a 4.50mm crochet hook - my favourite is Clover Amour.  (amazon affiliated link)

You can access the video here...... 

If you would prefer a written pattern, then here you go.

FLAGS

Row 1: Start with a slip knot then CH 3. Your next stitch will be worked into the 3rd CH from the hook.    Work 2 x TR into this stitch.  (3 stitches) 

Row 2: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the base of the CH as shown in the photo.  SK a stitch and work 3 x TR into the last stitch

Row 3: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the base of the CH as shown in the photo.  , now work 3 x TR into the space in-between the clusters from the row below, then 3 x TR into the last stitch.   You will now have 3 clusters of 3 trebles. 

Row 4: Turn, CH 3, then * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next  space, then work a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 5: Turn, CH 3, then work 3 x TR into the first space, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next  space, then work a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 6: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the first space, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 2 spaces, then work 2 x TR into the last space and a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 7: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the base of the CH, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 2 spaces, then work 3 x TR into the last stitch. 

Row 8: Turn, CH 3, then * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next  3 spaces, then work a single TR into the last stitch.

Row 9: Turn, CH 3, then work 3 x TR into the first space, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 3 spaces, then work a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 10: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the first space, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 3 spaces, then work 2 x TR into the last space and a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 11: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the base of the CH, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 4 spaces, then work 3 x TR into the last stitch. 

Row 12: Turn, CH 3, then * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next  5 spaces, then work a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 13: Turn, CH 3, then work 3 x TR into the first space, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 5 spaces, then work a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 14: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the first space, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 5 spaces, then work 2 x TR into the last space and a single TR into the last stitch. 

Row 15: Turn, CH 3, then work 2 x TR into the base of the CH, * jump to the next space in-between clusters and work 3 x TR, repeat from * for the next 6 spaces, then work 3 x TR into the last stitch. 

Make a single CH stitch and pull through yarn to form a knot.

EDGING

Join a different colour to the left hand corner (facing)and work a row of evenly spaced DC's down the side of the flag , work 3 x DC into the bottom stitch before working evenly up the other side. 

TASSLE

Using a different colour again, cut 6 lengths of yarn measuring 15cm long. 

Fold the yarn lengths in half and pull them halfway through the bottom stitch on your edging from the front to the back. pull the ends through the loop just created and give them a little tug to tighten. 

 

JOINING

Row 1: Leaving a good length of yarn, start with a slip knot then CH 50, then take your first flag and work a DC into each stitch across the top.  **CH 5 then take the next flag and work a DC into each stitch across.  Repeat from ** for as many flags as you have. When you have attached all your flags, CH 52 and turn.

Row 2: DC into the 2nd CH from the hook and DC right across all the chains and flags.   Finish off yarn but leave a long tail for sewing.

 

FINISHING

Turn the end of the chain over to form a loop and sew into place.  

Would love to see photos of finished bunting and what you do with it, be sure to tag me on Instagram and Facebook - both are 'Sooz in The Shed'.  Until next time... HAPPY HOOKING !