I have been revisiting older patterns of late, these are patterns that I used to use in my actual real workshop space, but as I don't have that any more I am on a mission to try and get all the patterns videoed and uploaded onto YouTube for everyone to have a go and and hopefully enjoy.
My Ammonite crochet cushion used to be quite a popular class, its very repetitive and quite easy once you get going... and it's a real talking point when placed on a sofa!
To make this design really pop you need a slight colour changing yarn, one that changes colour gently, not one that is too blocky, if that makes sense.
I have used Stylecraft's Moorland Chunky in the video, but you can use any yarn weight, it will just come out a slightly different size, Try to use a smaller hook than is recommended as It makes the fabric denser and less likely to show the stuffing through.
Allow two balls of 100g yarn. You will also need some stuffing - I cheat a little and buy a cheap fiberfill pillow and pull that apart to stuff my cushions - it seems to work out cheaper than buying toy stuffing.
The video is probably easiest to follow and you can find it here.... but if you prefer the written pattern I have added it below.
Main Strip:
CH 50 (not too tight)
Row 1. HTR into the 3rd CH from the hook,
then into each CH afterwards (48 stitches)
Rows 2-8. CH2, then using the BACK LOOPS of
each stitch only, HTR every stitch across - DO NOT FORGET to work into the
turning chain at the end of your work or it will start to decrease too soon.
(48 stitches)
Rows 9-10. CH2, then using the BACK LOOPS of
each stitch only, HTR every stitch across but DO miss out the last stitch into
the turning chain at the end of the row. (46 stitches)
Rows 11-18. As rows 2-8 (46 stitches) Rows 19-20. As rows 9-10 (44 stitches)
Rows 21-28. As rows 2-8 (44 stitches) Rows 29-30. As rows 9-10 (42 stitches)
Rows 31-38. As rows 2-8 (42 stitches) Rows 39-40. As rows 9-10 (40 stitches)
Rows 41-48. As rows 2-8 (40 stitches) Rows 49-50. As rows 9-10 (38 stitches)
Rows 51-58. As rows 2-8 (38 stitches) Rows 59-60. As rows 9-10 (36 stitches)
Rows 61-68. As rows 2-8 (36 stitches) Rows 69-70. As rows 9-10 (34 stitches)
Rows 71-78. As rows 2-8 (34 stitches) Rows 79-80. As rows 9-10 (32 stitches)
Rows 81-88. As rows 2-8 (32 stitches) Rows 89-90. As rows 9-10 (30 stitches)
Rows 91-98. As rows 2-8 (34 stitches) Rows 99-100. As rows 9-10 (32 sts)
Rows 101-108. As rows 2-8 (32 sts) Rows 109-110. As rows 9-10 (30 sts)
Rows 111-118. As rows 2-8 (30 sts) Rows 119-120. As rows 9-10 (28 sts)
Rows 121-128. As rows 2-8 (28 sts) Rows 129-130. As rows 9-10 (26 sts)
Rows 131-138. As rows 2-8 (26 sts) Rows 139-140. As rows 9-10 (24 sts)
Rows 141-148. As rows 2-8 (24 sts) Rows 149-150. As rows 9-10 (22 sts)
Rows 151-158. As rows 2-8 (22 sts) Rows 159-160. As rows 9-10 (20 sts)
Rows 161-168. As rows 2-8 (20 sts) Rows 169-170. As rows 9-10 (18 sts)
Rows 171-178. As rows 2-8 (18 sts) Rows 179-180. As rows 9-10 (16 sts)
Rows 181-188. As rows 2-8 (16 sts) Rows 189-190. As rows 9-10 (14 sts)
Rows 191-198. As rows 2-8 (14 sts) Rows 199-200. As rows 9-10 (12 sts)
Break off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
End piece:
Round 1. MR then work 6 x DC into the
ring. (6 sts) Add marker, if you wish,
to help you count. Do not SS to join,
simply carry on working in the round.
Round 2. Work 2 x DC's into each stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3. (1 DC in next stitch, then 2 x DC's
in next) Repeat. (18 sts)
Round 4. (1 DC in next 2 stitches, then 2 x
DC's in next) Repeat. (24 sts)
Round 5. (1 DC in next 3 stitches, then 2 x
DC's in next) Repeat. (30 sts)
Round 6. (1 DC in next 4 stitches, then 2 x
DC's in next) Repeat. (36 sts)
Round 7. (1 DC in next 5 stitches, then 2 x
DC's in next) Repeat. (42 sts)
Round 8. 1 DC in next 3 stitches, (2 x DC's in
next, 1 DC in next 6 stitches,) Repeat to last 3 stitches, 1 DC in next 3
stitches. (48 sts)








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